Falling for Dat Taw Gyaint, again
 Dat Taw Gyaint has several pools at different levels that offer a refreshing swim. (Dominic Horner)

One of Myanmar’s most beloved swimming holes, I thought I’d seen everything that Dat Taw Gyaint had to offer: trickling rocky slides that lead to secluded natural pools, that enormous main fall—the tumbling waters pummelling whoever happens to be paddling beneath them. All foregrounded by a golden stupa perched besides the rocks.

Located southwest of Pyin Oo Lwin, it’s the kind of archetypal Burmese scene that shows up in cheesy laminated posters and calendars throughout the country. Taken as a whole, the fall remains one of the country’s most spectacular natural treasures.

That all said, by the third visit, I was starting to feel a bit been-there-swum-that. I’d planned the last trip as little more than an excuse to snap a few obligatory box-ticking pics and chug a couple of Myanmar beers for sunset. But on the way down to the falls, we came across a guide who offered his services to us.

Now, normally when someone offers you guiding services for somewhere you don’t need guiding services to, you say no. Well, you do if you’re not British. Unfortunately, my travelling companion and I are British and essentially let ourselves be embarrassed into a guided tour of a fall I’d already (or so I thought) thoroughly explored.

As it turns out, a guilt-trip was just what we needed. Our guide took us first through the jungle to a stunning viewpoint of the upper fall. Then, to another step and to a large rounded turquoise pool where we submerged ourselves in the cool refreshing waters.

Finally, he led us to the very top and edge of the main fall where we were not only afforded incredible head-spinning views of the valley, but were led up slippery slopes across burbling streams, shepherded over felled tree trunks to yet another set of smaller falls, each boasting their own unique and beautiful bathing pools. I was just blown away. Just when you think there’s no stone left to turn you accidentally roll over a boulder.

And in the end our guide wasn’t pushy or money-grabbing at all. When it came time to say goodbye we had to practically force 15,000 kyats (and a spare beer) onto him.

What are the lessons here? First of all, go to Dat Taw Gyaint, it’s amazing. Second, when it comes to travel in Myanmar there’s always more you can find, there’s always more to discover. Third, have faith in the people, they won’t let you down.

Need to Know

Nearest town: Pyin Oo Lwin.

How to get there: Hire a taxi (about 20,000 kyats) or rent a motorbike (10-15,000 kyats). It’s a 30-45 minute journey.

When to visit: Doable all year but expect murkier waters during monsoon season.

Dominic Horner is a wild swimming aficionado whose work has been featured in Frontier Myanmar, Lonely Planet and The Independent.